How to Use Rose Hip Seed Oil in Your Skincare Routine
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Time to read 14 min
Rose hip seed oil is one botanical ingredient that has earned a prized and enduring status in skincare. Naturally rich in essential fatty acids, including linoleic and alpha linolenic acid, it is particularly valued for helping to support the skin barrier, maintain hydration and keep skin feeling soft and supple. There is also some very interesting clinical research into its impact on the appearance of scars.
As with most botanical ingredients, there is a lot more to rose hip seed oil than a name on an ingredients list. The species, how it is extracted, its freshness and how it is formulated alongside other ingredients can all influence what eventually impacts your skin.
At Raven Botanicals, we have worked with rose hip seed oil for years, and use it across many of our formulations. It's an ingredient we love, but not because we think it is a "miracle" oil. We love it because its fatty acid profile makes it a genuinely useful, versatile ingredient when it is built carefully into a skincare formula.
So, what does the science actually tell us about rose hip seed oil, how do you recognise a good one, and where should it sit in your skincare routine?
A note from our formulator
Rose hip seed oil is an ingredient we have used in skincare for generations, long before we had the science to explain why it might be beneficial. Today, we understand much more about its naturally-occurring fatty acids and antioxidants, and why these can be valuable for supporting healthy, resilient skin. I've always been interested in the intersection of traditional botanical knowledge and modern formulation science, and rose hip is a wonderful example of an ingredient that has some genuinely interesting research to back up it's use in skincare.
We use rose hip seed oil in several Raven formulations, including Spellbind Serum, Skin Saviour Facial Oil, Solstice Facial Oil and Night Balm. We don't use it just because it's a beautiful natural ingredient. We use it because of what its fatty acid profile can contribute to a carefully balanced formula, and because it works beautifully alongside other botanical oils and actives selected for different skin needs.
In this article, I wanted to look beyond some of the bigger claims surrounding rose hip oil and explore what we actually know about it, what it can do for your skin, how best to use it and why formulation matters just as much as the ingredient itself.
Charlotte
Founder - Raven Botanicals
Table of Contents
What rose hip seed oil is, and why the plant source matters What the science supports, and what it doesn't Why extraction method AFFECTS what's in the bottle TL;DR: Rose hip seed oil at a glance How to recognise a good quality rose hip seed oil How to use rose hip seed oil correctly in your routine How much rose hip seed oil should you use? Layering rose hip seed oil with actives How long before you see results? How we use rose hip seed oil at Raven Botanicals FAQs About Rose Hip Seed Oil Related Articles from the Raven Journal
What rose hip seed oil is, and why the plant source matters
There's a common misconception worth clearing up first. Rose hip seed oil doesn't come from rose petals. It's pressed from the seeds inside the fruit, the small hip that forms after the rose blooms and drops its petals.
The two species most commonly used in skincare are Rosa canina and Rosa rubiginosa, also called Rosa affinis rubiginosa. Both yield oils dominated by linoleic acid, alpha linolenic acid and oleic acid, alongside smaller quantities of naturally occurring compounds including tocopherols and carotenoids.
The difference between the two species is modest but worth knowing. Rosa rubiginosa has been reported to contain a slightly higher proportion of essential unsaturated fatty acids and a higher linoleic to oleic ratio than Rosa canina. The precise composition of any botanical oil can vary according to species, growing conditions and processing, however, which is why the name of the plant is only part of the story.
At Raven Botanicals, we approach botanical oil selection in much the same way as we approach every ingredient in our formulations. We look at the species, extraction method, provenance and fatty acid profile, as well as how an oil behaves alongside the other ingredients in a formula. Small batch production gives us the freedom to be particular about the raw materials we work with, because ultimately their quality determines what ends up on your skin.
Looking for rose hip skincare?
You don't need to use rose hip seed oil on its own to enjoy its benefits. At Raven, we formulate it alongside complementary botanical oils and actives, to create different formulas for different skin needs.
For mature or changing skin:
Spellbind Serum combines rose hip with bakuchiol, yarrow, hemp and prickly pear to support skin experiencing changes in texture, firmness and elasticity.
For combination or temperamental skin:
Skin Saviour Facial Oil combines rose hip with sea buckthorn, jojoba, poppy and lunaria in a beautifully balanced facial oil.
For dry skin:
Solstice Facial Oil pairs rose hip with borage, camellia, poppy and lunaria for deeper nourishment and softness.
For your evening ritual:
Night Balm brings rose hip together with hemp, argan and hazelnut oils in a rich botanical balm designed to nourish skin overnight.
What the science supports, and what it doesn't
Some of the most compelling clinical evidence for rose hip seed oil relates to the visible appearance of scars and skin repair.
In a double blind comparative study of 108 patients, applying rose hip seed oil twice daily produced significant improvements in the appearance of post surgical scars over six to twelve weeks. By twelve weeks, 73% of those using rose hip oil showed no visible redness, compared with 50% in the control group, while 63% showed no discolouration compared with just 21% of controls. Improvements were also observed in skin atrophy, suggesting that consistent use may help support a smoother, more even looking appearance as scars mature.
A review published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology also identified several plausible mechanisms behind these effects. Rose hip seed oil is naturally rich in essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, which play an important role in supporting the skin barrier and maintaining moisture. A well supported, hydrated barrier can help skin feel softer, smoother and more resilient, while the clinical findings around redness and colour unevenness within scar tissue are particularly encouraging.
Research specifically investigating rose hip seed oil for established wrinkles and general facial pigmentation is less extensive, so we are careful not to present it as a miracle treatment for every skin concern. What we do know is that its fatty acid profile makes it a valuable ingredient for supporting hydration, suppleness and healthy barrier function, all of which can contribute to skin looking smoother and feeling more comfortable.
For us, this is where thoughtful formulation becomes important. Rather than expecting one botanical oil to do everything, we combine rose hip seed oil with complementary plant oils and carefully chosen actives to create formulas designed around the needs of the skin.
EXPLORE MORE OF THE INGREDIENTS BEHIND OUR FORMULAS →
Why extraction method AFFECTS what's in the bottle
Cold pressed rose hip seed oil is particularly prized because this gentler extraction method helps preserve more of the oil's naturally occurring, heat sensitive compounds. These include carotenoids and antioxidant compounds, alongside trace retinoid related compounds, as well as its naturally rich profile of essential fatty acids.
This combination is part of what makes rose hip such an interesting skincare ingredient. Its fatty acid profile includes linoleic and alpha linolenic acids, which are important for supporting the skin barrier and helping skin retain moisture, alongside oleic acid and a range of valuable minor plant compounds.
You may sometimes hear rose hip seed oil described as a form of “natural retinol”. There is an interesting reason for the comparison, as rose hip can contain naturally occurring retinoid related compounds, but these are present in very small amounts. We prefer to celebrate rose hip for what it genuinely is: a beautifully complex botanical oil rather than a botanical substitute for a formulated retinoid.
Cold pressing also preserves more of the character of the plant itself. A good cold pressed rose hip seed oil is typically a rich amber to orange red colour with a subtle earthy, slightly nutty aroma, while refined oils tend to be paler and more neutral in scent. Refining doesn't make an oil inherently poor quality, but it does remove or reduce some of the minor compounds that make cold pressed rose hip particularly interesting to us as formulators.
That richness does mean rose hip deserves a little care. Its naturally high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids makes it more susceptible to oxidation than exceptionally stable oils such as jojoba. Protecting it from excessive heat, light and air helps preserve those valuable compounds, which is why thoughtful formulation, protective packaging and proper storage all matter.
Discover rosehip seed oil in our Spellbind Serum →
DISCOVER SPELLBIND SERUM
If you're exploring rose hip seed oil because your skin is beginning to change in texture, firmness or elasticity, Spellbind Serum is where we would start.
Rather than relying on rose hip alone, we formulated Spellbind with rose hip, yarrow, hemp and prickly pear oils, alongside bakuchiol, a revered botanical active used in skincare to target visible signs of ageing.
The result is a concentrated facial serum that brings the nourishing fatty acids of rose hip into a more complete formula designed for mature and changing skin.
TL;DR: Rose hip seed oil at a glance
Rose hip seed oil is naturally rich in essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic and alpha linolenic acid, which help support the skin barrier and maintain hydration.
There is clinical research into its effect on the appearance of scars, with improvements in redness and discolouration seen with consistent use.
It isn’t a natural alternative to retinol. Rose hip seed oil contains trace retinoid related compounds, but it does not work in the same way as a formulated retinoid treatment.
Cold pressed and refined oils are different. Cold pressing helps retain more of the oil’s naturally occurring carotenoids, antioxidants and other minor compounds.
Quality matters. Species, extraction, freshness, provenance and storage can all affect the oil that eventually reaches your skin.
We believe rose hip is at its best as part of an intelligent formulation like Spellbind Serum, where its fatty acid profile can work alongside complementary botanical oils and evidence-based actives.
How to recognise a good quality rose hip seed oil
When selecting a rose hip seed oil, we look beyond the claims on the front of the bottle and pay attention to what's actually inside it. On the ingredients list, look for Rosa canina seed oil or Rosa rubiginosa seed oil. The botanical species, extraction method, freshness, provenance and packaging can all tell you more about an oil than price alone.
Packaging matters too. Rose hip seed oil is naturally high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which makes it more susceptible to oxidation than some more stable botanical oils. Dark or UV protective packaging, like the biophotonic glass we use at Raven can help protect it from light, while limiting unnecessary exposure to heat and air helps preserve its freshness. If an oil develops a noticeably rancid or unpleasant smell, this can be a sign that oxidation has taken place.
Organic certification can provide additional information about how an ingredient has been grown and independently verified, but it's only one part of the picture. For us, quality is about understanding the ingredient as a whole: where it has come from, how it's been processed and, importantly, how it performs within a formulation.
ROSE HIP SEED OIL: DID YOU KNOW?
Rose hips have a surprisingly colourful history. In Norse mythology, the wild rose was associated with Freyja, goddess of love and beauty, while across European folk tradition roses became symbols of love, protection and renewal.
The fruit itself also has a more practical claim to fame. Rose hips are exceptionally rich in vitamin C, and during the Second World War British families were encouraged to gather wild rose hips to make syrup when imported citrus fruits were scarce.
How to use rose hip seed oil correctly in your routine
Facial oils generally work best towards the end of your skincare routine, after water based products like toners and serums, and after moisturiser if you use one.
Facial oils help to reduce moisture loss and seal in the hydration beneath them, so applying your water based skincare first allows those products to sit closer to the skin.
A simple routine could look like this:
- Cleanse to remove make up, SPF and daily impurities.
- Hydrate and treat with your chosen serum.
- Moisturise if you use one.
- Apply your facial oil to nourish the skin and help reduce moisture loss.
- Finish with SPF in the morning.
How much rose hip seed oil should you use?
If you're using pure rose hip seed oil, two or three drops is a sensible starting amount for the face and neck, although the right quantity will depend on your skin and the product you are using.
More does not necessarily mean better. Ideally, your skin should feel comfortable and nourished rather than coated in oil. If your rose hip seed oil is part of a professionally-formulated serum, facial oil or balm, follow the directions for that particular product.
Layering rose hip seed oil with actives
If you are using a water based vitamin C, niacinamide or hydrating serum, use it after cleansing and underneath your facial oil.
The same general principle applies if you use a retinoid at night. Follow the directions for your particular retinoid product and use your facial oil later in your routine if your skin benefits from the additional nourishment.
How long before you see results?
Some of the benefits of a facial oil can be felt very quickly. Dry skin, for example, may feel softer, more supple and more comfortable after application. Visible changes take longer, but with consistency, improvements become more noticeable over time.
In the clinical research examining post-surgical scars, differences were assessed after six and twelve weeks of consistent twice-daily application, rather than after a few days. As is the case with most skincare products, consistency matters more than using large quantities of any one ingredient.
How we use rose hip seed oil at Raven Botanicals
At Raven, we tend not to look at botanical ingredients in isolation. Rose hip seed oil is a beautiful ingredient in its own right, but we find it particularly interesting when it's combined in symphony with other beautiful botanical oils and active ingredients.
You'll find rose hip seed oil in several Raven formulations. Spellbind Serum combines it with yarrow, hemp and prickly pear oils alongside bakuchiol, creating a nourishing treatment particularly suited to skin that is beginning to experience changes in texture, firmness and elasticity.
In Skin Saviour Facial Oil, rose hip sits alongside sea buckthorn, poppy seed, lunaria, hazelnut and jojoba oils in a lighter botanical blend designed to support balanced, resilient skin. For skin that needs something richer, Solstice Rejuvenating Facial Oil combines rose hip with poppy, lunaria, camellia, borage and jojoba oils.
You'll also find it in our Night Balm, where it forms part of a richer overnight blend of botanicals designed to nourish and support the skin while you sleep.
All of these formulations are developed and made by us in small batches in our solar powered studio in rural Scotand. For Charlotte, our cofounder and formulator, the interesting question is rarely whether an ingredient is fashionable. It is what that ingredient contributes to the formula as a whole.
Rose hip seed oil earns its place in a considered skincare routine. Its essential fatty acid profile makes it very effective for supporting the skin barrier and maintaining hydration, and there is interesting clinical evidence around its effect on the appearance of scars. Evidence for its effect on fine lines and broader hyperpigmentation is less conclusive than some of the claims surrounding rose hip oil might suggest.
If you're using a pure rose hip seed oil, apply a small amount towards the end of your routine, after any water-based products and treatments. And if you're choosing a product formulated with rose hip seed oil, look beyond the hero ingredient itself. What it's been combined with, the quality of the raw materials and the formulation as a whole matter just as much.
FAQs About Rose Hip Seed Oil
Can you use rose hip seed oil every day?
Yes, rose hip seed oil can generally be used every day if it suits your skin. If you're introducing a new facial oil or formulation, start with a small amount and see how your skin responds. Some people prefer facial oils at night, while drier skin may enjoy them morning and evening.
Is rose hip seed oil good for dry skin?
Rose hip seed oil can be particularly useful for dry skin because its fatty acid profile helps support the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss. For very dry skin, we often prefer rose hip as part of a more rounded formulation containing complementary botanical oils rather than relying on one oil alone.
Does rose hip seed oil help scars?
There is clinical research suggesting that topical rose hip seed oil may help improve aspects of the visible appearance of post surgical scars, including redness and discolouration. It should not, however, be considered a treatment for wounds or applied to unhealed or broken skin without appropriate medical advice.
Do you use rose hip seed oil before or after moisturiser?
When using pure rose hip seed oil, it will usually sit towards the end of your routine, after serums, water-based products and generally after moisturiser. If rose hip seed oil is already incorporated into a formulated serum, facial oil or balm, follow the directions for that particular product.
Can you use rose hip seed oil with retinol?
Yes. Rose hip seed oil can generally be incorporated into a routine containing a retinoid. Follow the instructions for your retinoid product first and use your facial oil later in your routine if needed. Despite sometimes being described as a “natural retinol”, rose hip seed oil is not equivalent to a formulated retinoid treatment.
Is rose hip seed oil suitable for oily or blemish prone skin?
It can be. Oily skin does not necessarily need to avoid oils altogether, but the overall formulation and the amount you apply matter. If your skin is oily, combination or prone to blemishes, a carefully formulated facial oil or serum containing rose hip seed oil may be easier to incorporate than applying a generous amount of pure oil. Explore our oily skin collection here.
Where can I buy skincare made in Scotland?
Raven Botanicals skincare is made in Scotland and is available directly from our online shop, as well as through selected retailers and stockists. You can also explore our Skincare Made in Scotland guide to learn more about where and how we make our products.
The Author: Charlotte Harvey
Charlotte is co-founder and formulator at Raven Botanicals, with a background in botany, and forensic science, alongside a Distinction in Organic Skincare Formulation. She develops and formulates Raven's skincare from our solar-powered studio in East Lothian, combining botanical knowledge with modern cosmetic science to create our award-winning formulations.
